This checklist contains common items needed for RV camping getaways. Camping to us implies spending time in nature, where the main goal is to relax and unwind.

RV camping is practiced in recreational vehicles of all types and sizes. However, we feel that this checklist is most applicable to the smaller units intended for shorter trips. Long-term RVers, such as fulltimers and snowbirds, have everything with them in the RV and most likely have no need for a camping checklist.

Tip: We have generalized this list to make it applicable to the typical camper. You may want to add extra details so that nothing is forgotten. For example, in place of “Prescription and other medicines”, you may want to list each medicine by name.

Days Before Departure
Itinerary given to family or friends
Weather reports checked for destination
Emergency contact information in each person’s wallet
Cash, traveler’s checks, credit cards
General Camping Items
Cellular phone with extra battery or charger
Map, compass, and GPS
Weather radio
Whistle for each person, for signaling in case of emergency
Prescription and other medicines
First aid kit
Sunscreen
Rope for emergencies, strong enough to hold a person
Folding chairs
Sunglasses
Folding knife and seethe
Binoculars
Backpack, daypack or fanny pack
Camera and film or memory cards
Camera accessories: extra batteries, tripod, weatherproof case, etc.
Flashlights and extra batteries (or better yet, hand cranked flashlights)
Lantern
Fuel for lantern (propane, extra batteries)
Bug spray and other repellant products
Alarm clock and battery
Bedding (pillows, blankets, sheets)
Sleeping bags
Electric fan (for hot weather)
Electric extension cord
Savin dust (for killing bugs around RV and campsite)
Fire wood
Fire wood cutting tools, where permitted (saw, axe)
Writing paper and pencil
Basic tools (hammer, screw driver set, wrench set, etc.)
Clothing
Warm weather clothes
Cold weather clothes
Underclothes
Sleepwear
Caps or hats
Gloves
Rain gear
Shoes and socks
Hiking boots and thick socks
Personal Hygiene Items
Toothbrush and toothpaste
Soap
Washcloth
Towel
Antiperspirant
Shaving kit
Hair care products (comb, brush, hair dryer, etc.)
Toilet paper
Prescription glasses, sunglasses, contact lenses
Dirty laundry bag
Foot powder
Small mirror
Kitchen and Food Preparation
Detailed meal plan
Groceries (see meal plan for shopping list)
Seasoning and spices (salt, pepper, Lawry’s, steak sauce, etc.)
Condiments (mustard, ketchup, mayonnaise, etc.)
Drinking water and containers
Water filter or treatment chemicals
Utensils, cups, dishes
Can opener
Pots and skillet
Oven mitts and hot pads
Airtight food containers (to keep away animals)
Ice chest and ice
Camping stove or burner
Fuel for camping stove
Grill
Fuel for grill (propane, butane, or charcoal)
Lighter fluid for charcoal
Lighter or waterproof matches
Ziploc bags
Aluminum foil
Dishwashing items (basin, soap, sponge, drying rag)
Trash bags
On the Water
Sunscreen
Watercraft (boat, jet ski, canoe, inflatable raft, etc.)
Air pump for inflating rafts and toys
Oars
Life jackets
Swimming clothes
Snorkel gear (goggles, fins/flippers)
Water shoes
Waterproof camera
Water toys
Fishing
Fishing gear with tackles
Fishing license
Fish bucket or stringer
Minnow bucket
Waders
Fish cleaning and preparing implements (cutting board, filet knife, etc.)
Camping with Pets
Food
Water
Treats
Food and water bowl
Pet toys
Leash and harness
Plastic bags for picking up after dog
Clothing and blanket in cold weather

Here is a great RV Packing List.

This great list was found here: http://changingears.com/rv-checklist-camping.shtml

Cleaning and Sanitation

• Large and small garbage bags
• Dish cloth, towels, scrub pad
• Plastic washing bin
• Towels, face cloths
• Laundry soap
• Rags, shop towels
• Soap, shampoo, dish soap, laundry soap, pre soak.
• Cleaning solution (we use vinegar a lot)
• Hand sanitizer, hand wipes
• Tissues, bathroom tissue
• Short handled broom and dustpan
• Short handled mop/bucket

Cooking and Campfires

• Axe
• Barbeque, camp stove, grill for campfire cooking
• Fuel for BBQ, stove, charcoal
• Cooking utensils (flippers, grabbers, stirrers etc.)
• Pot, pan, griddle
• Coffee pot, teapot
• Firewood
• Firestarter, fat sticks
• Long handled lighter, matches
• Newspaper or other non-glossy paper
• Weiner sticks, popcorn popper
• Other campfire cooking tools
• Skewers
• Flame resistant gloves
• Oven mitts, pot holders
• Table cloth, weights or clamps
• Plates, bowls, glasses, mugs, go cups
• Knives, forks, spoons
• Knife, knife sharpener (or self sharpening)
• Toothpicks
• Mixing bowl
• Bottle/can opener, corkscrew
• Cooler, Ice
• Timer
• Plastic containers, zip lock bags
• Foil, plastic wrap, wax paper
• Napkins, paper towels
• Can and bottle cozies
• Wine glasses (for us, stainless steel wine glasses are rv essentials)

Food

• Salt, pepper, sugar, spices
• Mayo, mustard, ketchup
• Butter/margarine
• Salad dressing, dip
• Flour, sugar
• Baking soda, baking powder, cornstarch
• Cooking/Salad oil
• Peanut butter, jam, syrup
• Coffee, tea, cocoa, cream
• Pickles, olives, hot peppers
• Bread, rolls, hotdog/hamb. buns
• Eggs, cheese, milk
• Sour cream, yogurt, cottage cheese
• Bacon bits, parmesan, croutons
• Oatmeal, cream of wheat, corn meal, etc.
• Cold cereal
• Pancake mix
• Marshmallows, popcorn, campfire food
• Tortillas
• Tuna, ham flakes
• Kraft dinner, noodle/rice side dishes
• Limes, lemons
• Corn on the cob
• Potatoes, yams, carrots
• Pasta, spaghetti, instant noodles
• Hot dogs, hamburgers
• Watermelon, grapes, oranges, etc.
• Lettuce, cucumber, green onion, celery
• Purple cabbage, radishes
• Onion, garlic
• Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower
• Mushrooms (canned or fresh)
• Tomatoes, peppers, avacados
• Chicken, pork, beef, fish
• Bacon, sausage, ham
• Canned beans, soups, spaghetti sauces
• Fruit cups, pudding cups
• Taco kit
• Marshmallows, grahams, chocolate
• Peanuts, nuts, chips, etc.
• Sliced meats
• Granola bars, cookies
• Juice, soft drinks
• Beer, wine, coolers
• Liquor, bailey’s, mix, ice

Games and Recreation

• Life jackets
• Swimsuits, fins, goggles, towels
• Canoe/kayak, inflatable dinghy, paddles
• Tubes, noodles, boogie boards, float toys
• Bicycles / wagon
• Dominoes, cards, dice, board games, etc.
• Bocci, frisbee, horseshoes, croquet
• Volleyball, badminton
• Baseball/glove/bat, basketball, soccer ball, football
• Kite, remote control toys
• Compass, maps
• Mirror
• Foot pump for inflatables
• Fishing gear, licence, bait
• Golf clubs, tennis racquets
• Hammock

RV Living

• Large piece of outdoor carpet
• Lantern, fuel, mantles
• Heater, fuel
• Flashlights, headlamp
• Smoking materials
• Insect discouragers
• Folding table & chairs
• Batteries
• Scented candles
• Water jugs
• Camera, GPS, cell phone
• Swiss army knife, multi tool
• Warm clothing, wool socks
• Binoculars
• Rain gear, umbrella, gum boots
• Duct tape, gorilla glue, WD40
• Small sewing kit, safety pins
• Solar outdoor lights
• Solar panel
• Fire extinguisher
• Toilet paper, paper towel
• Small shovel
• Music – ipod,satellite radio, etc.
• Musical instruments
• Whistles
• Travel clock
• Clothesline/pins
• Water, water filter
• Bedding – pillows, sleeping bags, blankets.

First Aid

• Emergency phone numbers, poison control
• Flashlight, extra batteries
• Pen/pencil, paper
• 1 First aid booklet
• 1 Barrier device (breathing)
• 5 Pair non-latex gloves
• 2 Burn dressings
• 5 Gauze pads 4X4 and 2X2
• 2 Pressure dressings
• 2 Eye patches
• 1 Abdominal pad
• 2 Roller gauze
• 1 Adhesive tape
• 1 Pair scissors
• 1 Pair tweezers
• 5 Triangular bandages
• 10 Alcohol wipes
• 2 Each hot and cold packs
• 1 Space blanket
• 10 Steri strips, butterfly bandages
• Bandaids (various shapes and sizes)
• Antibacterial hand gel
• 1 pocket mask

Medical

• Prescription medication
• Epi pens, Inhalers
• Glasses, Reading glasses, contacts, sunglasses,
• Eyeglass repair kit, extra eyeglasses
• Hearing aid repair kit

Reminder

Don’t forget epi pens and inhalers!!!

Always pack a little more medication than you expect you’ll need in case of travel delays or loss/damage to meds.

• Ear plugs, hearing aids
• Toothpicks, brush, paste, floss
• ASA (aspirin)
• Antacid (tums)
• Benadryl
• Eye drops
• Ear drops
• Aloe Vera, soothing lotions
• Sunscreen, bugspray
• Pain relief, Tylenol, Motrin, etc.
• Vitamins, herbal preparations
• Cold medication (day and night)
• Immodium, metamucil
• Water purifying tablets
• Antibiotic cream (polysporin, neosporin)
• Hot water bottle

Informational list found here: http://www.vacation-lists.com/rv-packing-list.html

Congratulations you bought your first RV and you are ready to begin your first road trip. Before you leave, make sure you bring the things you need. I am not talking about food, utensils, blankets and pillows, but rather the odds and ends that you need to setup and use your RV properly. Like most checklists, you will probably think of a few things that you would like to add to the list and that’s great.
Spare tire, road flares and a flashlight. Cars and trucks come with some type of a spare even if it is only a temporary one. Make sure your RV has a spare, Travel trailers and pop-ups are not required to be sold with one.

Chock Blocks. You should always chock your wheels when you setup. Never disconnect a trailer from your tow vehicle without chocking the wheels.

Drinking water hose 50 feet. Don’t make the mistake of grabbing a garden hose or a rubber hose, Your water will taste terrible. Get a hose labeled ‘drinking water hose’ it has a vinyl lining that will not impart any taste from the hose itself. I recommend two 25 foot hoses rather than one 50 footer. The second hose will get occasional use when 25 feet isn’t enough and serves as a backup in case the first hose fails.

Water pressure regulator. Bring along a hose regulator to protect your hose and your RV from excessive water pressure. Some parks on city water systems have been known to have more that 100 psi of pressure! Your RV and drinking water hose are made to be used at about 30-50 psi. Use the regulator at the water source, before the hose.

Hose washers. Having a few extra of these around will save many trips to the Hardware/RV store.

Taste/Odor water filter. This might not actually be a necessity but it’s a good idea.

Extension Cords. Your RV usually has about a 15-25 foot cord. An extra 25 foot extension cord is a must. Make sure it is the same gauge as the cord on your RV. Most RVs have a 30 amp cord although you might have a 50amp. You will probably need to go to an RV store to get a 30 or 50 amp extension. I also carry a 50′ of a lighter gauge. Not a good idea to run appliances on a lighter cord (one of those orange ones) but it will get you lights in a pinch.

Cable TV cord for parks that offer cable tv.

Electric Adapters. There are a lot of possible combinations here, but you should at least have an adapter that will allow you to plug your 30/50 amp cord into a 15 amp outlet (regular household outlet).

Electrical tester. Unless your RV has one built in, get one of the type that stays plugged into an outlet so that you can monitor the voltage. You can damage some equipment if the Park power is not 110-125 volts.

Sewer hose. You should carry a 20′ hose with proper fittings. TIP: hookup your electric, water and sewer first before disconnecting and setting up your unit. It is much easier to deal with an electric or fresh water extension if one of the three is a long reach. Only buy Heavy duty or better quality hose, anything less than that is garbage and won’t last.

Waterproof or disposable gloves are a good idea for handling your sewer hose.

Stabilizer Jacks. Many RVs come with crank down or electric stabilizer jacks. If yours has neither, you will need stabilizer jacks.

Wood blocks. Several short blocks of 2x10s or the like. You will need them under the tongue jack, the stabilizer jacks so they don’t sink into the ground and under your wheels when you need to be a little more level.

Toolbox. You should have pliers to tighten/loosen hose and cable connections. Screwdriver for emergency sewer hose changes. Duct tape to temporarily secure anything that happens to come loose while traveling.

Go here for information about RV’ing in the winter.

Article list found here:  www.websbestcampingguide.com/rvfaq1.php

For many families, their first recreation vehicle purchase is a tent trailer, also known as a fold down trailer. Economical, fun, and comfortable, tent trailers are a luxurious step up from sleeping on the ground. They are easy to tow, easy to set up and take down, and easy to store. To make sure you get the longest life out of your tent trailer, there are some things you must do to maintain them.

The most important thing you can do for your tent trailer is to make sure it’s dry before you fold it down. If it is stored wet for any length of time, mildew and rot can set in. If you must put it away wet while you are traveling, open it up and dry it thoroughly as soon as practical. Watch for condensation too, because even if it’s not actually raining, your tent trailer can get damp.

Clean the outside of your tent trailer regularly. Always use a mild detergent and a soft bristle brush, and rinse thoroughly to remove all soap residue. Harsh detergents, soaps, solvents and aerosol cleaners can remove the water repellent finish of your fabric. Cleaning off bird droppings, tree sap and dirt right away will keep your tent trailer looking new, and improve the resale value of your trailer. After washing and rinsing, check the interior for any leakage, especially around the roof vents, corner moldings, exterior doors and compartments. If you do find any leaks, reseal the area right away before you forget where it is.

Be very careful using insect repellent, hair sprays and sun tan lotions around the fabric of your tent trailer. An agent used in most of them will damage or destroy water repellent finishes. Step well away from your trailer before you spray or slap on the lotion, and watch what you touch or lean against after you’ve protected yourself. If there is accidental contact, apply something like Scotch Guard Fabric Protector to the affected area as soon as possible to restore the water repellent finish.

When you are storing your trailer for any length of time it’s worthwhile to block the unit up to relieve the weight on the wheels and tires. If you are storing it outside, remove the cushions, mattresses and curtains, and try not to park it under any trees. Baked on tree sap is very difficult to remove, and can certainly affect the finish of your unit. Crank the tongue jack up so that the front of the trailer is higher than the rear. This allows water to run off it more easily.

In warm weather, don’t cover the top with a tarp, because heat build-up can warp the road cover of the trailer. In the winter, however, it is a good idea to cover the closed trailer loosely with a tarp to help stop any water leakage. Remember to check your tent trailer once a month during the off season. Open it up and let it air out for a couple of hours, as long as it won’t get wet while you are doing it. Leaks can develop while it is in storage, and small animals can decide to make it their winter’s nest. By checking on it monthly, you can stop small problems before they become big ones.

For many people tent trailers are the best of both worlds – comfortable and convenient but still close to the outdoors. Take care of your tent trailer and it will give you many years of enjoyment.

Article found here: http://www.rvhotlinecanada.com/Tent-Trailer-Care.asp?loc=rv-resources

Click here for RV Storage Tips for Key Storage.

Even with Oregon’s mild winter, it still pays to winterize your boat. You never know when the next hard frost will come, and once it’s here, it may be too late. Even without the frost, an improperly stored boat can suffer damage through the winter. Follow these steps to help prevent costly repairs later.

Your Boat
If possible, store your boat ashore for the winter. The bulkhead, keel and motor are the critical areas needing support. Cradles work best, but don’t store your boat on a cradle that was designed for a different model.

If you store your boat in the water, close all through-hull fittings, gate valves and seacocks. Do not close cockpit drains. Plug exhaust ports. Check your boat occasionally to make sure lines are secure, bumpers are in place, and the bilge is dry.

Cover the boat. Use a frame under the cover to prevent water from pooling and tearing your cover or damaging the boat. Canvas is best because it breathes, but plastic works too. Make sure you leave vents in it to allow condensation to escape. Allow for drainage if you’re storing outside.

Add non-toxic anti-freeze to water tanks, toilets and septic holding tanks. Never use engine anti-freeze in a freshwater system.

Remove electronic equipment, important documents and other valuables that could tempt thieves.

Your Engine

* Drain the cooling system and add anti-freeze. On outboards, this means filling a large bucket or drum with enough antifreeze to reach the water intake, then running the motor until it is warm. Use a non-toxic antifreeze only.
* Disconnect the battery and store in a warm, dry place. If you have to leave it on board to operate an alarm or bilge pump, fill battery cells with distilled water and fully charge it so it doesn’t freeze. Apply petroleum jelly to clean terminals to prevent corrosion.
* Oil: Drain and replace the engine, transmission and outdrive oil. Replace gear oil in outdrives. Use internal oil fogger while the engine is warm to prevent corrosion.
* Top off fuel tanks, leaving a little room for expansion. Add a fuel stabilizer.
* To keep water from collecting in outdrives, leave them in the down position.

Your Trailer

* Rust spreads easily, so inspect your trailer before storing. Sand off and prime any rust spots you find.
* Check tire inflation and brakes and brake fluid. Consider raising the trailer onto blocks to take stress off the tires and suspension.
* Lubricate all rollers, pivot points, the winch, and the coupler.
* Look for signs of cracking or metal fatigue. Tighten bolts and screws and inspect the electrical system for worn wires or loose connections. The bulb bases inside taillights can be sprayed with WD-40 to keep moisture out.
* Protecting your boat now against the extremes of winter will save you time and money in the long run.

Shrink Wrap Your Boat

Article found:

http://www.oregon.gov/OSMB/Clean/maintenance.shtml#Winterizing_Your_Boat

Standard covers can be affixed using bungee cords and other types of tie downs. It is important to make sure that the cover is tight and does not allow water to pool on top. Pooling can be prevented using support poles and bows, which can be affixed to rail sockets to prevent sagging. Bows are very effective and give your boat a professional appearance when being stored. If you plan to store your boat for an extended period, you may want to consider a shrink wrap solution. Shrink wrap is easier to maintain and clean and is a nice option for both transportation and storage. Its light weight makes it easy to maneuver and it takes up less space when not in use.

In addition to a boat cover, you may want to consider an engine cover to protect the most vulnerable part of your investment. Dirt can be particularly harmful to an engine, and keeping it clean is important not only for performance but also to help maintain longevity. Motor covers come in different sizes and provide a significant amount of protection for a minimal investment.

A variety of other boat accessories can further add to your overall boating enjoyment. One of the most popular is the boat ladder that facilitates entry and exit. Ladders are especially useful to the skiing enthusiast. Beyond the ladder is the swim platform, which has a step like a ladder but also provides a space to stand outside the hull for safety and stability. These accessories are mounted on the stern for easy access. Safety is essential so it is important that the motor is placed in the neutral position when utilizing a ladder.

For the serious skier, a ski pylon is a nice option to enhance the skiing experience. A ski pylon keeps the tow rope clear of the motor and also adds to the performance of the boat. Additionally, it provides a center pivot point that makes it easier for the skier to ski from one side of the boat to the other with greater stability and confidence.

Whether you seek boat accessories to keep your boat maintained or to enhance its comfort and performance, you’ll find a wide variety of options to make your boating experience safer and more pleasurable while extending the lifespan of your investment.

Article found here: http://ezinearticles.com/?Boat-Accessories-Add-Value-to-Your-Boating-Experience&id=4502511

Click here for Good Tips from Oregon.gov on Boat Storage

There are lots of things to do and to see in the wintertime; beautiful winter scenery, snow skiing, hunting, riding snowmobiles and much more. It’s no wonder so many people enjoy using their RV’s year round. When winter approaches each year I get numerous e-mails requesting information about using RV’s in cold temperatures. One reason I haven’t written on this subject in the past is because it would require more than just a short article to thoroughly cover this topic. Another reason for not writing about this in the past is that there are no guarantees that your RV can or will be 100 percent protected from the harsh winter elements by following written advice on the subject.

What I can do is offer you some suggestions and ideas that will help to protect your RV if you plan to use it during the cold winter months. I just can’t guarantee that it will be 100 percent protected. These suggestions and ideas are for short term winter camping in your RV. If you plan to take extended RV trips in cold weather there are many other precautions and measures that need to be considered, like using insulated skirting around the bottom of the RV for example.

Note: What we will be concentrating on is how to protect your RV during cold weather camping. It is extremely important that you also understand how to protect yourself and other campers in cold temperatures.

One of the first considerations for cold weather RVing is if you will be traveling in temperatures below freezing. If this is the case, and there is water in the RV water system, your plumbing lines or water heater tank could freeze, resulting in costly repair bills, not to mention ruining your winter wonderland RV trip. To avoid this from happening I travel with the water system winterized. It is actually much easier to winterize an RV than most people think it is, and it’s not very expensive either. I have winterized and de-winterized our RV as many as four times in one winter. Note: Our “Winterizing & Storing Your RV” DVD will teach you how to winterize your RV, by yourself, and save money, especially if you enjoy using your RV during the winter months.

The good news is it is still possible to use the bathroom facilities when you are traveling with the RV winterized. We take one gallon jugs filled with water to use in the toilet, and if your holding tanks are not heated you can put some RV antifreeze in the holding tanks to prevent the contents from freezing. Add the RV antifreeze through the toilet for the black water holding tank and down the shower or tub drain for the gray water tank. The antifreeze will also protect the shower or tub P-trap which is usually located below floor level. The amount of antifreeze required for the holding tanks will be based on the size of the tanks, and it will be necessary to add more RV antifreeze as waste water is added to the tanks to prevent the antifreeze from being diluted.

Don’t allow the holding tanks to fill completely, before emptying them, during cold weather camping. This will reduce the chance of freezing, resulting in damage to the holding tanks. Take bottled water along for drinking and other needs like cooking, washing up and brushing your teeth when the RV is winterized. We have a five-gallon jug that we always take on trips, filled with tap water from our house, for our pet’s drinking water and our other needs. This comes in handy when the RV is winterized.

When we arrive at our destination I try to select a site that will be exposed to the sun throughout the day, but also where there is some type of wind break available. Position the RV on the site so the front or rear will be facing the brunt of any wind, not the side of the RV. If there is an electrical hook-up I de-winterize the water system so we can use everything. All of the water lines in our motorhome are above floor level, in a heated space, so we don’t need to be too concerned about the water system freezing as long as the RV has heat. We leave the water heater turned on whenever the water heater tank is full so there is no chance of it freezing. Some water heaters operate off of LP gas and electricity. Keep in mind if it’s in the electric mode it will use 9 to 13 amps.

It’s important that you know where all of the plumbing on your RV is located. Some RVs have heat ducts going to the basement storage areas where the water system is exposed to outside temperatures, but many RVs do not. If portions of the RV water system are below floor level, in areas that are not heated, it is possible for it to freeze and damage the water lines. If you are hooked up to an external water supply one option is to leave a faucet in the RV dripping, to keep the water moving, and decrease the possibility of water lines freezing. Another option is to use heat tape to protect the exposed water lines. Heat tape can be purchased at most hardware or building supply stores. Make sure it is suitable for the types of water lines in your RV, and if you plan to use it on a water hose.

If it is extremely cold outside and the possibility exists that the outside water supply could freeze, or if the campground water supply is shut off for the winter, I fill our fresh water holding tank and use it for all of our water requirements. Again, keep in mind where your fresh water tank is located; ours is above floor level in a heated area. If the campgrounds shower facilities are still open it’s a good idea to use them to avoid the gray water holding tank from filling so quickly. In this situation it might be in your best interest to keep the RV winterized and just use the campground facilities.

Tip: If you haven’t purchased your RV yet and you know you will be using an RV in cold weather make sure to include an arctic package option when you buy it. Some packages include higher R-factor insulation, enclosed underbelly, heated holding tanks, dual pane windows and more.

To prepare your RV for storage, click here.

Information source was found here: http://ezinearticles.com/?Cold-Weather-RVing&id=328529

Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores:

* Non-toxic RV antifreeze (the amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. 2 to 3 gallons will normally do).

* A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.

* A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.

* Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.

Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it from freezing. Be sure to read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV.

* If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass them before starting.

* Drain the fresh water holding tank.

* Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. Clean the black tank with a wand. Lubricate the termination valves.

* Drain the water heater. CAUTION: Never drain when hot or under pressure.

* Open all hot and cold faucets; don’t forget the toilet valve and outside shower.

* Locate and open low point drain lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained.

* Recap all drains and close all faucets.

* By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of antifreeze.

* Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank) and connect tubing from the pump into a gallon of RV antifreeze.

* Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace antifreeze jug as required.

* Repeat on all faucets from the closest to farthest away. Don’t forget the outside shower.

* Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.

* Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go to the city water inlet.

* Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen.

* Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a few cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank.

* If your water heater has an electric heating element turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored.

* Make sure all faucets are closed.

* Consult your owner manuals for winterizing ice makers and washing machines.

Your RV is winterized

This checklist is a basic guide that was intended to assist you in winterizing your RV. As with many other checklists it would be impossible to cover every RV. It is extremely important that you read your owner’s manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines.

Happy Camping!

Click here for more RV Storage Prep at Key Storage!

Imformation found here:http://ezinearticles.com/?RV-Winterizing&id=305480

Winterizing your boat is the single most important maintenance duty that you will have to perform as a boat owner. If it is done correctly, very little work will be required to get the boat ready for the water in the spring. Proper winterization greatly extends the life of the boat and its engine by protecting its components from freezing, corrosion and lying idle for long periods.

The first step in the winterization process is to ensure that the boat’s fuel tank is full – leave just a little room for expansion – and add fuel stabilizer in accordance with the instructions on the product. If the fuel tank isn’t full you run the risk of condensation forming within the tank which can lead to corrosion and clogging.

Turn off fuel valves and seal through-hull exhaust ports with duct tape. Replace the water separator and the fuel filter.

Protecting Your Engine

Run the engine for a while to warm it up and change the oil while it’s warm. This allows many of the impurities in the oil to be drained away. Change the oil filters. If your engine uses coolant drain the current fluid from the engine block and manifolds and replace it with a propylene glycol based antifreeze.

When a boat is not being used, oil tends to settle at the bottom of the engine block, exposing the pistons and valves to air, humidity and other corrosive materials. To avoid this situation remove the spark plugs and spray “fogging oil” inside the carburetor and into each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs without reconnecting the wires.

Replace the engine’s old gear oil with fresh oil. Dispose of any used oil at an authorized recycling center.

Outboards

Flush outboard engines with fresh water. Allow all water to drain from the engine and wash down the engine with soap and water. Disconnect the fuel hose and run the engine until it stops. It is important to ensure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor. Use fogging oil in the cylinders. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads, and lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a quality wax. Change the gear oil in the lower unit.

If your boat will be stored out of the water during the off season, disconnect the battery and store it at home. Boats left in the water should have the battery left in place on board and functioning so the bilge pump will continue to function if required. If you are removing the battery from the boat, ensure it is fully charged before stowing it away. Recharge every 30-60 days or keep on a trickle charger during the storage period and check the water level from time to time.

It is also sensible to remove any valuable marine electronics from the boat for the winter, and to store this equipment in a safe place to avoid theft and possible damage caused by temperature changes and humidity. The winterization process also offers an opportunity to inspect items like lines, flotation devices, flares, fire extinguishers, etc., for wear and tear and possible replacement.

Propeller

This is also a good time to check your boat’s propeller and hub. Bent or nicked propeller blades will diminish performance. The hub may also be have sustained extensive wear. If this type of damage is apparent, replace the propeller and make any necessary repairs during the winterizing process.

Clean, Clean, Clean

Clean the boat thoroughly inside and out. If you store your boat with dirt, scum, barnacles and the like on the exterior, these impurities will be even harder to remove in the spring. After the exterior of the boat has been cleaned, apply a quality polish to the exterior surfaces to create a protective barrier against dirt and dust. Clean the interior, including all timber, vinyl and carpet.

To help keep your boat free from mildew, you may wish to install a dehumidifier or use a moisture absorber. Turn any cushions up on edge so that air can circulate around them, or better yet, remove them from the boat.

Drain and clean the bilges. (If your boat will be stored out of the water remove all drain plugs and put them in a place where they’ll be easy to find when relaunching your boat in the spring.) Spray the bilges with moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze.

Empty The Head

Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use an approved cleaner for your type of system, and let the solution sit for a few minutes before adding more fresh water and pumping it out again. Add antifreeze and pump the coolant through the hoses, holding tank, Y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Check your owner’s manual to be sure that an alcohol based antifreeze won’t damage your system.

Water Tanks

Drain the fresh water tank and any hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connecting them together. Pump non-toxic antifreeze through the system by turning on all the taps / shower until the antifreeze starts coming out. Add non-toxic antifreeze to the water heater.

Put it on Blocks

If you own a trailer boat, consider putting the boat and trailer up on blocks for winter to take the pressure off the tires. Inspect the trailer and tires for wear and tear. Grease the wheel bearings and replace if necessary.

If at all possible, store your boat undercover. If you need to leave it outdoors you’ll require a boat cover. A good quality 8- to 10-ounce canvas boat cover should be adequate for most situation. Even undercover the boat should be covered to protect against dust and dirt, pests and bird droppings. For extreme conditions you could consider shrink-wrapping the boat. Do-it-yourself kits are available.

Shrink wrap your boat.

This advice came from here.